NAPLES, Italy — The southern Italian port city of Naples is one of contradictions. It is known both for its majestic views of Mount Vesuvius as well as hellish traffic. It’s the city where pizza was invented but also where unemployment is a persistent problem.

It is also a city, Italy’s third largest after the capitol Rome and Milan, that features both Greek and Roman art — the nearby town of Pompeii that was buried in ash following a volcanic eruption is a wonderful example of this — in addition to its 500 Catholic churches dating back to the first century that reached its artistic heights during the Baroque period.

One of the most majestic displays of religious art a visitor can find in Italy — if not anywhere in the Catholic world — is known as the Museum of the Treasure of San Gennaro. Located in Naples’ historic city center (which is also famous for artisans and nativity scenes), the area has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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Treasure, as it pertains to sacred art, typically means relics that are held inside a church. But this collection also features precious artifacts housed in the Cathedral of Naples with a history dating back centuries. The treasure holds immense religious, cultural and historic significance. Its dazzling wealth and mysterious origin have captured the imagination of locals and tourists alike, making it a symbol of Naples’ rich heritage. 

“The treasure represents the extraordinary history of a people’s faith and the extraordinary amount of art and culture that has formed around this faith,” said Paolo Iorio, who serves as the museum’s director.

The treasure’s origins

The treasure of San Gennaro can be traced back to the fourth century, when the city’s patron saint (known in English as St. Januarius) was a bishop martyred for his Christian faith. Over the centuries, the faithful sought relics associated with the saint, and his dried blood became a central element of veneration.

The collection itself began to take shape in the 14th century, when the first in a series of donations was made to the cathedral by a series of popes and monarchs, including Napoleon. The treasure consists of a remarkable array of precious items, including crowns, chalices, statues, jewelry and relics. The collection, set up in a series of rooms adjoining the Cathedral of Naples, is a testament to the city's devotion and the patron saint’s prominence to the city and outlying areas. 

It was the year 1527, at a time when Naples was beset by disease, war and the frequent eruption of nearby Mount Vesuvius, that the people of Naples decided to build a chapel in honor of the saint and to safeguard the donated priceless treasure in return for his protection. The collection was hidden in a vault for centuries and even moved temporarily to the Vatican so that it would not be sacked during World War II. The museum opened to the public in 2003.

The collection’s centerpiece is the Mitre of San Gennaro, a golden headdress adorned with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires. It’s a dazzling display of precious gems that rivals, in terms of value, the rich collections owned by European royalty, including the British monarchy.

Adorned with 3,694 stones — over 3,000 of them diamonds — the mitre weighs 40 pounds and was made in the 18th century by master goldsmith Matteo Treglia in 1713. The mitre alone is estimated to be worth $7 million.

These devotional objects are so priceless that the cathedral is guarded 24 hours a day by Italian police. Equally noteworthy are the relics preserved in the collection. The small glass vessels containing the liquefied blood of San Gennaro, for example, are of particular importance. Those are sealed behind the altar and only seen by the public on special days.

Miracle performed three times a year

San Gennaro’s blood is said to miraculously liquefy three times a year — providing spiritual solace to the Neapolitan people and reinforcing their devotion to the saint. In fact, the saint has been venerated for centuries as the city's protector against war, plagues, earthquakes and other disasters.

The miracle is a remarkable phenomenon that has captivated believers and skeptics alike. It is an annual event where the saint’s dried blood liquefies in a glass vial. This extraordinary occurrence has been witnessed by thousands three times each year and continues to inspire awe.

San Gennaro was a bishop when he was beheaded in the year 305 during the persecution unleashed on Christians by the Roman Emperor Diocletian. The saint’s blood was collected after his death and has been preserved in a reliquary ever since. The liquefaction of this blood is said to be a miraculous sign of the saint's intercession and protection over the city of Naples. It is considered a bad omen when the blood fails to liquify, like happened in 2020 during the pandemic.

The liquefaction ceremony takes place on the saint’s feast day of Sept. 19 as well as Dec. 16 and the first Saturday each May. Devotees gather in the Cathedral of Naples, where the vial containing the dried blood is brought out. Prayers and hymns are recited, and anticipation fills the air. The faithful fervently wait for the liquefaction to take place, praying for the safety and well-being of their loved ones and the city’s residents.

When the moment arrives, the dried blood miraculously transforms into liquid, sometimes in a matter of minutes, sometimes taking hours. The crowd erupts in jubilation when that takes place, and the event is seen as a testament to the power and benevolence of the saint. Scientific explanations for this phenomenon range from natural chemical reactions to psychological factors.

But the miracle of San Gennaro transcends scientific understanding. For believers around the world (a feast in the saint’s honor is even held in New York, organized by immigrants each September), it is a profound symbol of faith and a reaffirmation of the divine presence in the world.

This miraculous occurrence, which dates back to the 1300s, continues to draw pilgrims from across the city and around the world, seeking solace, healing and even divine intervention. It is a testament to the enduring power of faith and the unexplainable wonders that can occur in our complex and mysterious universe.

As for the relics associated with the saint, they embody the rich cultural heritage of this Italian city. It symbolizes the intertwining of faith, history and artistic craftsmanship that characterizes Naples.

The collection also showcases the skills of renowned jewelers and artisans who created these masterpieces, while also reflecting the opulence and grandeur associated with religious ceremonies. Additionally, the treasure serves as a unifying force for Neapolitans, instilling a sense of pride and identity rooted in their shared history and devotion.

This museum stands as a testament to the rich legacy of Naples and the enduring power of religious devotion. Its opulence, historical significance and religious symbolism continue to captivate visitors, while also providing a glimpse into the cultural tapestry of this wonderful city and reinforcing its position as a guardian of both tradition and faith.

To book a visit or for more information, visit the exhibit’s website. You can also take a virtual tour there.

Clemente Lisi is a senior editor at Religion Unplugged and teaches journalism at The King’s College in New York City. He is the author of “The FIFA World Cup: A History of the Planet’s Biggest Sporting Event.” Follow him on Twitter @ClementeLisi.